
I’ve written numerous articles about streamlining Resolve color correction/grading workflows. Sure, at rare times a complex node tree is called for. Add to that tons of YouTube videos about how to get a ‘film look’. The truth is that when actual films were graded by a lab color timer (the film world’s equivalent of a video colorist), the available tools were rather simple. There simply was no complex windowing and masking in the way Resolve and other applications allow.
I wrapped up my previous post talking about grading in just one node. I’m going to elaborate on that now. When your timeline working space is set to DaVinci Wide Gamut/Intermediate, you are working in a colorspace-aware environment. There actually is no reason to use CSTs, LUTs, DRTs, and other tools. Those other tools are simply shortcuts. You can actually grade manually and the Resolve software takes care of the colorspace conversion issues.
The DaVinci Resolve Color Wheels palette includes three modes to balance and adjust exposure and contrast for your shots. (I will skip HDR Wheels in this discussion.) From left to right, you have Lift/Gamma/Gain wheels, Color Bars, and Log Wheels (Shadow/Midtone/Highlights). All three feature an RGB Offset control and common adjustment values for contrast, shadow, highlights, saturation, detail, etc. The Lift/Gamma/Gain Wheels and the Color Bars adjust the same parameters, but using different controls.
The difference between the Lift/Gamma/Gain wheels and the Log Wheels is how the three regions overlap in one set of controls versus the other. The Shadow/Midtone/Highlights (Log) wheels control tighter sections of the image with less overlap. You can use any of the controls (as well as HDR Wheels) on any type of image – SDR, HDR, log, Rec 709, etc. It’s whatever does the job you need.
While the steps I’m going to outline are specific to DaVinci Resolve, you can use a similar set of processes with the internal color correction tools in Premiere and Final Cut Pro. This workflow is ideal when correcting log footage, but can also be used on regular Rec 709 video. If you are working with log footage, be sure to turn off any color management features that might automatically convert it into Rec 709 before starting.
Step 1 – Exposure/Contrast – Select the Log Wheel panel. Adjust the ‘rotary dials’ at the bottom of the Shadow and Highlights wheels. (These are the same as the rings around the trackballs on the hardware panels.) Drop the Shadows to about the 10% range on the waveform scope. Raise the Highlights to about the 90% range on the waveform scope. Adjust the Contrast control to spread out the image a bit more. Adjust the Pivot control to shift the midpoint of the contrast range brighter or darker.
Step 2 – Saturation – Increase Saturation. The default value is 50. Depending on the appearance, increasing that to somewhere between 65 and 75 should be about right.
Step 3 – Curves – Start with the Custom Curve and add points at about 1/3 and 2/3 along the line. Shift the sections above and below slightly to create a subtle s-curve. This will result in a more filmic appearance to the image contrast. However, making these changes will often add a saturation build-up in the dark and bright areas of the image. One of the keys to the ARRI ALEXA color science is that saturation is decreased at the extremes. Select the Luma Vs Sat Curve and add points at about the 20% and 55% points. Now drag down the two ends of the curve line. This will decrease saturation in the shadow and highlight ranges. This transition should be gradual. Depending on the image content, you may or may not want to drag the line all the way down to 0.
Step 4 – RGB Offset/Printer Lights – The last step is to adjust color balance as needed. You can do this with the Temperature and Tint controls, but it’s often preferable to use the Offset wheel. The ‘rotary dial’ under the wheel controls global exposure. Adjust the wheel to change global color balance by using the mouse or the offset trackball on one of Blackmagic’s control panels. The numbers under the wheel represent the specific RGB values and default to 25/25/25. However, this balance can also be adjusted using Printer Lights, which is what these numbers indicate.
Printer Lights were how a film color timer (colorist) corrected a film image. DaVinci Resolve uses a digital equivalent that correlates to the Offset wheel. You can also adjust the RGB ratio using the keyboard’s number pad as hotkeys. These can be adjusted in plus or minus full, half, or quarter Printer Light increments. Enter values for red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, and yellow. For example, the 7, 8, and 9 number keys give you one full Printer Light increase for red, green, and blue, respectively. Type 7 and the Offset value for red changes from 25 to 26 and the image becomes slightly more red.
Step 5 – Additional Corrections – By now you should have a pretty good looking image as a starting point. From here it’s easy to push more stylized color grading into the the three regions of the image using the Shadow/Midtone/Highlights wheels in the Log panel. Or hop to the Lift/Gamma/Gain wheels for a broader treatment.
Everything that I’ve covered has all been done in a single node. Adding more nodes is purely optional. For example, you might want to add a film grain texture. No sweat. Add a second serial node and apply the Film Grain effect. Adjust the grain settings to taste. The possibilities with DaVinci Resolve are nearly limitless. Just be sure to start with a solid foundation, which can be a simple as just one node.
©2026 Oliver Peters

































